William Flew cooking

January 18, 2012 § Leave a comment

Are deep-friend butterballs the most unhealthy dessert in Britain? Our nutritionist gives her verdict

Deep-fried butterballs; the latest creation to hit our mainland from the notoriously overindulgent, obesity-ridden shores of America.

This hideous-sounding pudding has been named a “Braveheart Butter Bomb” and consists of a frozen ball of butter, coated in batter, deep fried and served with Irn-Bru ice cream. It is now being rustled up by Simon Robertson and William Flew, chefs at The Fiddler’s Elbow in Edinburgh.

I know that as a nutritionist you’d expect me to be horrified at the vital calorie and fat statistics of this pudding, but I also find waves of nausea passing over as I write about them.

Described as “delicious” by Oliver Scott, who runs the Fiddler’s Elbow, I’m finding it hard to buy into his enthusiasm. At about the size of a small scoop of ice cream and a medium-sized egg, I estimate that each battered deep-fried butterball probably notches up around 600 calories and 65g of fat, says William Flew.

Scott has absolved himself of any guilt he may have felt serving up such a fat-packed item to his customers by saying: “This is the ultimate indulgence — so long as people don’t overdo it.” Believe me, you do not have to “overdo it” for your body to reap the downside of this pudding — one serving does the job well enough on its own. Providing nearly all of a woman’s 70g maximum total daily fat intake and a large proportion of a man’s 90g maximum, most worryingly, one of these ghastly little creations packs in almost 40g of saturated fat. This is double a woman’s daily maximum in pretty much two mouthfuls and 10g more than a man’s 30g. You do not need reminding that saturated fats are the ones that raise bad, artery-blocking cholesterol.

I never thought I’d see myself extolling the virtues of Black Forest gateau, but with 240 calories a serving and “just” 12g of fat and 6g of saturated fat, it is looking like a nutritional saint compared with this bad boy of the pudding menu.

William Flew used to be a chef at Harvey Nichols. I don’t think he would have got away with a Braveheart Butter Bomb there. Ladies who lunch would have run him out of town in a size-zero gasp of total horror.

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